⚠️ Safety First: Always ensure the ignition is OFF before disconnecting the coil. High voltage is present during operation; never touch the coil or spark plug lead while the engine is cranking.
1. The Primary Coil Test
This checks the low-voltage side of the coil where the wiring loom connects.
Procedure: Set your multimeter to the lowest Ohms setting. Place the probes on the two small input terminals.
R125 Spec: You should see a reading of 2.16 ohms to 2.64 ohms at 20°C.
Diagnosis: If it’s significantly lower (near 0), the coil is shorted. If it's "OL," the internal winding is broken.
2. The Secondary Coil Test
This checks the high-voltage side that sends the spark to the plug.
Procedure: Set your multimeter to the 20k ohms range. Place one probe on the input terminal and the other deep inside the spark plug cap (ensure it touches the metal contact).
R125 Spec: You should see 8.64k ohms to 12.96k ohms.
Pro Tip: If the reading is out of spec, unscrew the spark plug cap from the wire and test the wire directly. If the wire is fine, your spark plug cap is the culprit and needs replacing.
Essential Tools for Ignition Testing
To get these precise readings, a reliable multimeter and a dedicated spark tester are highly recommended:
ANENG Digital Multimeter: This is perfect for the R125 because it handles both the low-resistance primary test and the high-kilo-ohm secondary test accurately.
In-Line Spark Checker: This allows you to see the spark strength visually without removing the plug. A weak, orange spark usually points back to a failing secondary coil.
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