Tuesday, 18 July 2017

Yamaha YZF R125 blog , How to clean , detail your YZF R125


Detailing a motorcycle is a little more complicated than detailing a car. Whereas detailing a car is probably 90% paint correction and 10% rubber & plastic dressing and wheels, detailing a motorcycle involves working on many different types of surface, each requiring a different technique.

In common with a cars though, motorcycle detailing requires patience and attention to detail. If any details are missed in the preparation, then what will be noticed and what the eye will jump straight to will be the bits you missed. The overall impression will not be of a clean motorcycle but of a motorcycle with a dirty engine or dirty wheels etc.

There are no before photos unfortunately, only afters below. All of the motorcycles pictured are over 10 years old and came to me filthy with dull swirled paintwork and all in all looking worse for wear. It’s amazing what a little effort can accomplish on a bike.

First, here are the methods I use to detail motorcycles:


Motorcycle paint is thinner and softer than car paint. This makes it easier to remove defects and give the machine a better than showroom shine. I never use clay to prepare painted surfaces as it isn’t needed. Any surface contaminants are removed anyway during the polishing process. Honda and Yamaha paint in my experience is of very high quality; smooth and glossy with no orange peel. Suzuki comes next, with Kawasaki at the bottom of the list with often quite noticeable orange peel. 

The polishing process I use is simple:

1) Wash paintwork with sponge and car shampoo
2) On fully faired bikes, the bottom of the side fairings and the front of the belly pan will most likely be covered in caked-on road tar, chain oil and dirt. Remove this by spraying on Muc-Off or Gunk, wait 10 minutes and then carefully wipe off with a microfiber cloth, turning it frequently. When finished, throw the cloth away or wash it – don’t use again as-is for cleaning or polishing.
3) Polish using a G220 DA machine with Meguiars yellow polishing pad and either #80 or #83 polish. Start with the petrol tank and upper fairings then work your way down. As bike paint is soft, this step is enough to remove swirl marks and light scratches and leaves the bodywork as smooth as glass with an excellent shine
4) Finish with Black Magic Wet Shine, applied and buffed by hand with microfiber cloths. This polish is the best I have ever used on a car or bike. It does give an amazing wet look and is also quite durable.

Plastics and Switchgear

The first rule about detailing non-painted plastics such as fairing inner panels, airbox covers etc is not to get any polish or wax on them as it is very difficult to get off. For safety reasons, never treat the seat with anything other than soap and water. Any kind of plastic or rubber dressing will have your backside sliding off the seat whenever you accelerate/brake/corner while riding. Where possible it is best to remove the seat after cleaning the bike and to not put it back on until all detailing is complete.

I use Armor All for dressing all plastics including the windscreen, clocks and switchgear. Spray the product onto a sponge and then apply liberally to the plastics. Wait 10 minutes for the product to penetrate and then wipe off and polish with a clean microfiber cloth. To get a streak free finish on the clocks and windscreen it is necessary to use a perfectly dry piece of cloth to polish with. It seems that windscreens on bikes are made from the softest plastic known to man – even mf cloths can scratch them. If the screen is scratched, I remove it and correct with Megs #80 on a G220 with polishing pad.

Rear Wheel

The rear sprocket, wheel hub and, to a lesser degree, the rear wheel rim will almost certainly be covered in a thick caked on layer of filthy black oily sludge. This is a mixture of chain oil and dirt and is quite difficult to remove. The absolute best way to cut through the sludge and remove it is with petrol. It is also much cheaper than commercial degreasers like Gunk, costing around £1.20 a litre vs. £5 per litre. However, using petrol as a cleaner is obviously not environmentally sound if not used carefully and care should be taken not to spill any on the ground. The process for cleaning the rear wheel is:

1) Put plastic sheeting under the motorcycle to catch any spilled petrol or degreaser

2) Pour some petrol or degreaser into an old jam jar or similar glass container

3) Dip a toothbrush into the petrol/degreaser and then work into the sludge 
on the sprocket and wheel hub, doing a small (5cm x 5cm) area at a time. The petrol/degreaser will break up the sludge, which you can then wipe off with a rag. When finished, the hub and sprocket will be clean and grease free.

4) To clean the rim and spokes of the wheel, start by trying a less aggressive degreaser such as Muc-Off or Gunk. The paint on the rim of the wheel is very thin - using petrol on this part of the wheel will strip the paint back to metal if you're not careful. If Muc-Off or Gunk don't remove the dirt from the wheel then use petrol sparingly and rub gently with a rag or soft brush.

5) Once the wheels are dirt and grease free then polish the hub, spokes and rim with a microfibre cloth and a light cutting polish. I use T-Cut for this because it's cheap. Stone chips on black alloy wheels can be masked with a permanent marker pen, available from Office Depot and the like. Although the match will not be exact, dabbing the marker over small stone chips will be good enough to make them near enough invisible when you stand by the bike. Finish with srp.

Front Wheel

The front wheel is shielded from flying chain oil and should not be covered in greasy muck. Usually it is sufficient to polish the wheel with a light cutting polish, touch in any stone chips as above, and finish with srp.

Brake Discs and Calipers

The braking surface of the disc itself should not need cleaning due to the action of the brake pads against it. Indeed, it is not recommended to clean the braking surface of the brake disc so as not to decrease braking performance. The painted/polished inner part of the disc, however, should be degreased, cut and polished as described above for wheels.

Calipers should not be cleaned with any petroleum products as these can decompose the piston seals inside. Calipers can be cleaned with detergent or with brake fluid.

Fairing Fasteners

These often become rusty quickly if the bike is not garaged. Rusty fairing fasteners can be quite noticeable but are easy to sort out:

1) Remove fastener from bike

2) Fold up a microfiber cloth in four and lay on your table or work surface

3) Wet a sheet of 1500 - 2000 grit wet and dry paper and lay on the cloth. The cloth helps mould the paper into the shape of the fastener you are polishing and makes it easier than just laying the paper straight onto a hard surface.

4) Holding the paper down to prevent it from moving, rub the head of the fastener back and forth across the paper. Tilt the fastener as you rub so that the entire head of the fastener is sanded. You need to apply pressure when rubbing and rub quite quickly to remove the layer of rust and oxidation on the fastener head

5) Remove the paper from the microfibre cloth. Put a small pea sized bead of Autosol in the middle of the cloth. Hold the cloth down to prevent it from moving and rub the head of the fastener back and forth across the cloth. Tilt the fastener to ensure that all of the head is polished. Do this until the head of the fastener has a mirror shine.

Levers and Other Alloys

Gently rubbing with wet steel wool or 2000 grit wet and dry paper will remove the top layer of oxidisation from brake and clutch levers, shin guards etc. For finishing, Autosol is the best product I have found. Polishing by hand is possible but is quite hard work, so I use a Dremel 300 tool. This tool can be used with Dremel felt wheels but these don’t last very long and soon break up. However, the 300 comes with a sanding drum attachment. To make my own polishing wheel I cut mf cloth into 2cm by 10cm strips. I then wrap a strip around the sanding drum attachment. I then wrap a couple of short lengths of sewing thread around the strips on the drum and tie to secure them. I then have a mf cloth attachment which can rotate at 30,000 rpm to make short work of alloy polishing. Take great care if you choose to use this method though, as the mf strips can suddenly fly off the drum if not tied on securely.

Exhaust Cans and other Chrome

High speed polishing with a Dremel is not recommended for chrome polishing i.e. exhaust end cans as it will mark the chrome. Instead I use a 4 inch Megs cutting pad with Autosol for this. Don’t use any kind of cutting compound on black painted exhaust end cans as the paint is very thin and it will wear away very quickly. If a painted end can is scratched or marked, the best you can do is polish with a mild product like super resin polish.

For getting rust off chrome shock absorber springs, use either Autosol or very carefully rub gently with wet steel wool.

Swing Arm and Monoshock

These components are also likely to be coated in oily chain oil / road dirt muck. Cleaning is carried out as described above for the rear wheel. Use a toothbrush or other long brush to reach the monoshock.

Unlike wheel rims, swing arms are not supposed to be shiny, so care is needed when polishing so that scratches and marks are removed but not too much of a shine is given. A quick polish with a cheap cutting polish like T-Cut should do the trick, followed by srp.


Alloy frames and steel frames that are painted to look like alloy frames are not supposed to be shiny either. They should have a soft”glow “to them when reflecting light, but definitely not a high definition shine. Again, take care when polishing not to bring out too much of a shine. Machines with tubular steel frames however are meant to look shiny (CB500, Bandits, Fazers etc) so polishing with cutting polish can be done a little more enthusiastically. All frames, high shine or low shine, can be finished with srp.

Engine Casings

These are mostly coated either in lacquer or in high gloss engine paint and as such should not be polished with Autosol or other metal polishes. They should first be degreased with Gunk or Muc-Off, then polished carefully with a mild cutting compound, and then finished with a polish.

Radiator Hoses, Fuel Hoses, Brake Lines & Cables

Unlike a car, many of the fluid hoses and control cables on a bike are exposed. Detailing them is important to the overall quality of the detailing job. Hoses, lines and cables should first be degreased with Gunk or Muc-Off. Then liberally apply Armor-All or similar with a small sponge. Wait 10 minutes for the product to penetrate and then polish off with mf cloth.


The fork uppers should be polished either with a cutting polish like T-Cut or with a paste like Autosol. It is common to find minor spots of surface rust on fork uppers which can often be removed by slicing your thumbnail over the surface. Fork lowers are usually finished with lacquer or paint and should be treated like paintwork i.e. cut with T-Cut and then polished with SRP or similar.

Muc off motorcycle cleaning kit 

BUY here now  on amazon 

or on Ebay UK here 


Saturday, 6 May 2017

Yamaha YZF R125 key cutting service

Yamaha YZF R125  keys cut or any or most motorcycle key cutting service.

ive used these on many occasions and service is always excellent , its easy phone them tell them your ignition barrel codes and they send you a Key In The Post .

Click Here to Visit Key In The Post ebay page 

Thursday, 4 May 2017

Yamaha YZF R125 service kit - full servicing pack spark plug oil filters etc

Ive recently been converted to using these serving kits as you get everything and save on postage

bargain prices too .

Buy Yamaha YZF R125 service kits here oin Ebay uk

or try here for price comparison here Amazon UK





Wednesday, 3 May 2017

Yamaha YZF R125 pre mot check pass mot first time

Yamaha YZF R125 Pre mot check list

i cant really tell you how to do a thorough mot check there is quite a bit to it mostly common sense , but ill tell you what id do before an mot , i rarely have a failure , ive always done below get the obvious done , if the mot instructor get his pen out for something silly , you've had it .

in no paticular order

check for general play , wear , damage and correct adjustment :
check tyres for tread , inflation and obvious damage .
check chain lubrication and slackness .
check sprocket for wear
check cush drive for play (my mot tester has a thing for this )
check rear and front brake pads and measure discs and top up brake fluids
and then check brake operation
check wheel bearings for play
check exhaust system over for leaks , holes etc
check forks over for damage . bending or pitting to chrome
check forks for correct operation
check fork seals for wear / leakage
check rear shock for leaks and any play
check all indicators and bulbs are working
check number plate for damage and reflector present
check free operation of steering
check steering head bearings for play
check speedo and clocks all work and illuminate
check all switch gear
no obvious leaks anywhere over the bike ?
runs and idles well
give it a thorough clean (id not like to mot a filthy bike)
make sure all cables etc are adjusted correctly

generally clean and tidy overall well maintained bikes pass more easily
which is obvious but it suprises me the state of some bikes in mot stations .

err thats all i can think of right now , if or when i think of more ill
update motorbikes are very easy to mot , if you can add more please let me know

you can find a full genuine VOSA mot check list here

Yamaha YZF R125 Full service maintenance checks

Yamaha YZF R125 what i do when i fully service my bikes

in no particular order

- clean bike thoroughly 
- check bike over for wear / damage and items needing replacing 
- oil filter clean and oil replacement 
- Clean the air filter and replace if necessary 
- change the spark plug no matter what condition 
- check and adjust the tappets , valve clearances
- check the contact points condition and ignition timing 
- check and oil / adjust chain and sprockets
- check change inflate tyres 
- check and adjust tick over 
- check clean replace any fuel filters fitted 
- check all fuel pipes and tank for signs of damage or leaks 
- check the clutch adjustment and operation 
- check the brake operation and wear , replace any components that are damaged or worn 
- check wheels for condition and damage , i clean mine regular and protect with silicone spray 
- check the suspension , forks and dampers for leakage and correct operation 
- check steering moves freely and smoothly .

thats about it ,  i do all this every year , keep on top of your bikes maintenance .

Yamaha YZF R125 will not start , common problems and troubleshooting


this is the basics of fault finding .

You need all of the above to get the engine to run.

Remove the plug, reconnect it to the HT lead, hold it on the cylinder whilst turning the engine over and you should see a spark.

Whilst plug is out do a compression test. use a decent compression gauge to do the test .

Check fuel is fresh and getting to the carb.

thoroughly clean the carb out 

Check air filter is clean.

check timing spark problem - duff plug, cap, ht lead, coil - CDI , check timing .

Try the obvious first.



Fitting braided brake hoses will not give you greater stopping power, but it will give improved feel which is crucial to effective braking. This guide describes how to bleed the front brake. The process is the same for the rear brake, but bleeding is easier and can generally be done without removing the calliper.

Install the steel braided hose and bleed your brakes

  • Empty the line by bleeding the brake.

  • Connect hose to the nipple and loosen

  • Pump the brake and it should eject fluid, which you can collect in your container.

  • Keep the brake attached to the bike while you do this.

  • Once the reservoir is empty, stick a clean rag in, soak up remains and prevent intake of dust.

  • Loosen the master cylinder banjo bolt (beneath the banjo bolt there is a small ball bearing, be careful not to lose it).

  • Use a rag to mop up any drips.

  • Take the loose end of the hose, place it into your container and then place the container as low as possible.

  • Fluid should drain into the container.

  • Disconnect the hose from the caliper once it has stopped.

  • Remove the calliper from the fork but there will still be fluid in it so keep it upright.

  • With the hole into which brake fluid flows carefully positioned over your jam jar, squeeze the pads apart and it will eject most of the remaining fluid into the container.

  • Remove the pads from the calliper and clean it thouroughly.

  • Check that your new hose is of equal length to the rubber hose it will replace.

  • Ensure it is properly routed.

  • Take the new bolts from the box and reinstall the calliper

  • Connect both ends of the hose and tighten up the new banjo bolts.

  • Ensure that the small ball bearings have been replaced and that copper washers have been installed on either side of the new hose.

  • Fill the reservoir half full with your new brake fluid and start bleeding the brake (this will take a while as the system needs to be primed with new fluid).

  • Top up the reservoir as required.

  • When you reach a point that you feel is acceptable take the bike out a few times and the leaver will get firmer with each use.

  • On your return, flush a few more measures of fluid through the line and top up the reservoir (the instant you open the bleed valve it will go spongy, but close it up and it will get firm very quickly).



hel brake line fitting instructions 

Carefully remove the existing brake lines from the bike - avoid splashing the paint with brake fluid. Remove all the old washers and drain the system of brake fluid. Ensure all sealing surfaces are clean and in good condition. Fit the enclosed HEL brake line kit using the new copper washers supplied. Check the pitch of the new banjo bolts supplied in our kit with those being replaced on your bike. This is especially important with Suzuki Motorcycles as some models use both M10 x 1.00 and M10 x 1.25 pitch banjo bolts.


Experienced bike owners and mechanics will tell you that brake bleeding is easy. It is, but there's plenty of potential for error. Reading this guide will not turn you into an expert overnight. We have made every attempt to be correct and make this guide easy to read, but we cannot impart the gifts of skill, experience and common sense. If after reading this page you feel inclined to carry out bleeding to the braking system of a bike we will not accept responsibility for what happens next. You are responsible for your own actions and this information is offered as an introduction to bleeding.
Even though it is possible to bleed bike brake systems on your own it's advisable and much easier if two people do it. You will need clean, fresh brake fluid which has been allowed to settle over night - do not shake the bottle before starting as this will put air bubbles into the fluid, a length of plastic tubing which fits tightly to the bleed nipple and a glass container so you can see the air being expelled from the system.
It's a good idea to cover areas around the master cylinder and the bleed nipples to protect from accidental spillage. The area around the master cylinder and the bleed nipples should be as clean as possible to avoid getting dirt into the system. Firstly you need to remove the old lines so attach the plastic tubing to one of the bleed nipples and open slightly so you can pump most of the old fluid out before you take the old hoses off. It's known for the bleed nipples to be seized in the calipers - mild steel nipples and alloy calipers will suffer electrolytic corrosion naturally and winter salt on the roads will only increase the effect. You may want to take the opportunity to replace the mild steel nipples with stainless steel ones.
Assuming that you have been able to undo the bleed nipples make sure the brake reservoir has plenty of fluid in it and then rest the cap back on top to stop fluid squirting out when you begin bleeding.

Priming (Filling) The System

If you have a twin disc system bleed one caliper at a time. Attach the tube to the bleed nipple and place the other end in the clean glass jar. Poor some clean brake fluid into the jar so the end of the tube is submerged so you don't pull air back in to the system. Then open the bleed nipple, squeeze and release the brake lever slowly to give the master cylinder enough time to suck in fresh fluid from the reservoir. Keep an eye on the master cylinder reservoir and make sure the fluid level does not fall below the minimum mark else you will start sucking air into the system. Fluid may be being pulled into the system from the jar and you may see the level drop - this is fine but again make sure the end of the tube is always immersed in fluid. It shouldn't take too many lever actions to fill the system. Tighten the bleed nipple when finished.

Bleeding The System

Open the bleed nipple slowly - you should only need half a turn and at the same time slowly and smoothly squeeze the brake lever in (or push the pedal). Hold the lever in and you should see air bubbles or fluid being expelled into the jar. Old brake fluid can be any colour from dirty white to brown or black. Movement of fluid and/or bubbles will continue for a second or two, close the nipple and then release the brake lever.
Check the fluid level in the reservoir and top up if necessary. Repeat this operation until no more bubbles appear and the fluid coming out is clear. Keep the master cylinder topped up.
If you have a twin system repeat this process with the other caliper (it's best to do the furthest away from the master cylinder first) if everything has gone okay you should now have a brake system with a good solid feel to it, the lever will travel a short distance and then a solid resistance will stop it moving any further.
If when you continue to apply pressure you get a slow movement or spongy feel to the lever it's a good sign that there is still air in the system. There are a number of possibilities not least that you didn't get all the air out of the system so you should start bleeding again. Tighten all parts to the correct torque setting and then check the system to see that the lines are not trapped on full lock, no fluid leaks from anywhere etc.
More information about this procedure can be found on our Brake Doctor brake and clutch line bleeding page


Not all calipers have their bleed nipples at the highest point on their anatomy. This means that if there is a small pocket of air trapped above the nipple it will be hard to remove (air always goes to the highest point of the area it is in) and make the system spongy. You can get around this by taking the caliper off and making sure the nipple is at the highest point but remember to put a spacer between the pads to stop the pistons popping out and making it easier to refit the caliper.
A similar problem occurs with some racing bikes which have steeply angled handle bars - the brake hose arches up above the master cylinder and a small pocket of air can get trapped here. Again you can rearrange the layout or you could inject brake fluid using a syringe very carefully and slowly in through the bleed nipple in the caliper bearing in mind that the fluid in the reservoir may overflow. Fitting a banjo bolt which includes a bleed nipple to the master cylinder and bleeding this first before the rest of the system is another way to fix this problem.
If you are unable to remove the sponginess no matter how carefully you bleed the system you may have a sealing problem which you will need to consult your local dealer about. The master cylinder is fed from the reservoir by a tiny hole and this hole easily gets blocked which is why cleanliness is so important when bleeding brakes. If you cannot bleed your brakes yourself make sure you talk to your local dealer and get them to do it for you. Don't be tempted to use any of the 'self bleed' gadgets unless you really have to. These products allow the nipple to be kept open as they include a non return valve to stop air re-entering the system. But the bleed nipple has a threaded end which screws into the caliper - air can be sucked into the caliper along this route if the nipple is loose in the threaded part of the caliper - it will only be a small amount but why do it in the first place as we are trying to remove air.
When you have successfully bled your brakes make sure both bleed nipples are done up tightly, all banjo bolts are done up tightly to the torque settings laid out below and top up the master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid to the required level. Most standard reservoirs have an upper and lower limit shown on the reservoir itself. Do not overfill the reservoir as this can cause hydraulic locking of the system preventing the pistons in the caliper from fully retracting - this causes binding of the brakes.


Final Check

Re check the system visually before test riding - and we mean test riding. Just go forward a few feet slowly and apply the brakes then bring the bike back into the workshop to check that there is no fluid leaking from the system, everything is done up correctly and the brakes have a good solid feel to them. Do not ride your bike until you are certain you have bled the brakes correctly - If in doubt get your local dealer to bleed the system for you. Check that all end fittings are securely attached to each line. Check line(s) for clearance and that the kit has been installed without any kinks or twists in the system. Check that full suspension travel and steering lock are unaffected and that the hoses are not stretched or trapped in any way. Tighten the banjo bolts.